Sunday, 10 November 2013

Sunbathing with crocodiles


After a very frantic time in Lusaka we decided it was time to relax so we headed to the beautiful Lake Kariba. The first thing that this trip gave us was a newfound appreciation of Megabus. After four hours waiting to set off in a packed, boiling, rickety minibus and then four more hurtling round corners with a driver who clearly wanted to die, on a road the locals call the ‘death road’ I swear I will never complain about British public transport again. According to locals there are two accidents a week on this particular stretch of road, a fact emphasised by the lorry carcasses littering the track.  We passed through tiny villages comprised of nothing more than mud huts. Despite this, we noticed MTN shops everywhere where you could buy top ups for your phone!

When we arrived at the lake things instantly picked up. We had a small lodge right on the edge of the lake, mango trees at our door and stunning views. We spend the next few days sunbathing and avoiding Susan, the resident crocodile of the beach. We also went on an incredible sunset cruise where we saw a huge dam that formed the lake and also acts as the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Although beautiful, we were sad to learn that when the river Zambezi was dammed to make the lake, thousands of local people lost their homes, sacred burial sights and fertile farming land.

We met some amazing people at Lake Kariba who were all keen to teach us about the area.  Advice for the future: If bitten by a tiger fish you’re in trouble because its teeth are laced with an anticoagulant. The trick is to catch it and rub its eye on the wound because the eye contains a coagulant. The locals also delighted in terrifying us with stories of poisonous snakes and canoe-capsizing hippos. We were the laughing stock of the lodge when we had to ask a security guard to remove a spider from our room!




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